How to Install Under-Cabinet Lighting in 6 Steps

Good kitchen task lighting means you can see what you’re chopping without casting your own shadow across the cutting board. Under-cabinet lights solve that problem, and you’ve got two paths to get there: a 30-minute plug-in kit that works in rentals, or a permanent hardwired setup if you own the place and want a cleaner install.

Most people start with the plug-in route. It’s reversible, requires no electrical work, and costs $30 to $150 for a full set of LED under cabinet lights. If you’re renovating or want something code-compliant and seamless, hardwired is the way to go — but that’s a job where most of us should call a pro.

What you’ll need

For plug-in LED puck or strip lights:

Tools:

Tape measure
Pencil
Cleaning cloth
Isopropyl alcohol (for adhesive prep)

Materials:

LED puck light kit or plug-in strip lights (GE Enbrighten, Govee, or similar brands)
Adhesive cable clips (usually included)
Outlet or power strip within reach of cabinet area

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For hardwired installation (hire an electrician):

Hardwired LED strip kit with transformer
12- or 14-gauge wire and wire connectors
Junction box and circuit breaker access
Local permit (required in most jurisdictions)

Prerequisites:

Clean, dry cabinet undersides
Access to a grounded outlet for plug-in kits
For hardwired: licensed electrician and building permit

Before you start

If you’re going the plug-in route, check that the outlet you’ll use is grounded and not loose or damaged. Test it with a lamp before you commit to routing a cord across the cabinet run.

For hardwired installations, this is where I stop and make a phone call. If you’ve never worked inside a breaker panel or you’re not sure which breaker feeds your kitchen, hire a licensed electrician. Kitchen circuits often require GFCI protection, and adding a lighting load means confirming your circuit can handle it. Most local codes require a permit for hardwired kitchen under-cabinet lighting, and the inspection is worth it — you don’t want a fire hazard tucked under your cabinets.

Step 1: Measure and mark your layout

Measure the underside of each cabinet where you’ll install lights. Kitchen task lighting works best when it’s positioned 2 to 3 inches back from the front edge of the cabinet, aimed down at the countertop rather than straight into your eyes.

Use a pencil to mark the centerline of each cabinet section. If you’re using multiple puck lights, space them evenly — typically every 12 to 18 inches for even coverage. I’ve done this in my own kitchen twice (once as a renter, once after buying), and the placement makes all the difference. Too far back and you’re lighting the backsplash; too far forward and you’ll get glare.

Step 2: Clean the surface

Wipe down the cabinet underside with isopropyl alcohol on a clean cloth. Let it dry for two full minutes. Adhesive-backed LED strips stick to clean, dry wood or laminate; they don’t stick to dust or the thin film of cooking oil that builds up over time.

This step is boring and easy to skip. Don’t skip it. I’ve had strips fall off mid-install because I rushed this part.

Step 3: Mount the lights

Measuring tape and pencil on kitchen cabinet surface for layout planning — Photo by Michaela St on Pexels

For adhesive-backed strips: Peel the backing off one section at a time. Press the strip firmly into place along your marked line, holding each section for 10 seconds. Work slowly — once it’s down, repositioning tears the adhesive. Full adhesion takes 24 hours. Don’t hang anything from the lights or tug on the cord until then.

For puck lights with brackets: If your kit includes screw-mount brackets and you’re allowed to drill (homeowners, check with yourself; renters, check your lease), drill pilot holes at your marks and screw the bracket in place. The puck snaps or twists into the bracket. This method is more secure than adhesive and easier to adjust later.

For magnetic pucks: Some kits include a metal mounting strip. Stick or screw that strip to the cabinet underside first, then snap the magnetic pucks onto it. This is the easiest method for repositioning if you change your mind.

Step 4: Route the power cord

Thread the power cord along the underside of the cabinets toward the nearest outlet. Use the adhesive cable clips that came with your kit to secure the cord every 12 to 18 inches. Keep the cord away from heat sources — if your range hood vents warm air upward, route the cord to the side, not directly above the stove.

The goal is a cord that’s out of sight and won’t catch on drawer pulls or get yanked when you’re reaching for something. I run mine along the back edge of the cabinet underside, then drop it down inside the cabinet nearest the outlet and out through the back.

Step 5: Plug in and test

Connect the power cord to your outlet or power strip. Turn the lights on. Walk to the other end of the counter and check for even brightness. If one section is noticeably dimmer, you may have a weak connection at a strip junction — unplug, check the connection, and test again.

If the light is too harsh or too dim, most plug-in kits are dimmable. Check whether yours has a remote, in-line dimmer switch, or app control.

Step 6: Fine-tune placement

Hands positioning a white LED light strip underneath a kitchen cabinet — Photo by Ducky on Pexels

Stand at the counter as if you’re prepping food. The light should hit the countertop evenly without shining in your eyes. If it’s too bright or creating glare, you can add a diffuser cover (some kits include frosted snap-on covers) or move the strip back another inch.

Test it at night with your overhead lights off. Task lighting should be enough to work by on its own.

Verify it worked

Turn off your overhead kitchen lights and work at the counter under just the new task lighting. You should be able to read a recipe card, see the edge of your knife clearly, and not cast a shadow over your cutting board when you’re standing at the counter.

If you’re getting shadows, the lights are too far back. If you’re squinting, they’re too bright or angled wrong.

Troubleshooting

Problem: Adhesive strip falls off within a few days The surface wasn’t clean or dry, or you didn’t give it the full 24 hours to cure. Remove the strip, clean the cabinet again with isopropyl alcohol, let it dry completely, and use the adhesive cable clips as extra support points, or switch to bracket-mount pucks.

Problem: Lights are too dim Check the power connection — some plug-in kits have multiple strips daisy-chained together, and a weak connection at any junction will dim everything downstream. Also check the color temperature: cool white (4000K-5000K) LED under-cabinet lights appear brighter than warm white (2700K) even at the same lumen output.

Problem: Cord is visible or messy-looking Reroute it. Use more cable clips, or run the cord inside the cabinet and exit through a drilled hole near the outlet (homeowners only). Some people use adhesive cord covers that match the cabinet color.

Problem: Lights create glare or hotspots Move the strip farther back from the front edge, or angle it slightly if your mounting method allows. If your kit didn’t include a diffuser, you can buy snap-on frosted covers separately.

When to call a professional

Call a licensed electrician if:

You’re hardwiring the lights to your home’s electrical system
You need to add a new circuit or junction box
Your kitchen outlets aren’t GFCI-protected and you’re not sure how to verify that
You want the transformer hidden inside a cabinet and wired to a wall switch
You’re installing lights near or above a cooktop (heat ratings matter)

Hardwired kitchen under-cabinet lighting is permanent and code-compliant, but it requires a permit in most places, and the electrician will size the circuit correctly and install GFCI protection if needed. Budget $200 to $600 in labor on top of the $150 to $400 in materials.

Stick with plug-in kits if:

You’re renting
Your budget is under $150
You want to take the lights with you when you move
You’ve never opened your breaker panel

I’ve done both. The plug-in version in my rental took 30 minutes and a screwdriver. The hardwired version in my house took an electrician half a day, a permit, and an inspection. Both work. The hardwired setup looks cleaner and doesn’t have a visible cord, but the plug-in kit was faster and I could reverse it without patching drywall.

FAQ

What type of lighting is best for under-cabinet installations?

LED task lighting with a color temperature between 4000K and 5000K (cool white) works best for food prep. It’s focused downward, uses minimal energy, produces almost no heat, and lasts 10 to 15 years under typical use. Avoid halogen — it runs hot and wastes energy.

Can you install under-cabinet lights without wiring?

Yes. Battery-powered or plug-in LED puck lights and strip kits require no electrical work. You clean the surface, stick or screw the lights in place, and plug them in. Most renters go this route because it’s reversible and doesn’t require landlord approval.

How much does it cost to install under-cabinet lighting?

Plug-in LED kits cost $30 to $150 for a full set covering a standard kitchen. Hardwired installations run $350 to $1,000 when you include materials, electrician labor, and permit fees. Start with plug-in unless you’re mid-renovation.

Do under-cabinet lights need to be hardwired?

No. Modern LED strips and pucks are available as plug-in or battery-powered units. Hardwiring is optional and makes sense only if you want a permanent, code-compliant installation with no visible cords and integration with wall switches.

If you’re on the fence, start with a $40 three-pack of plug-in pucks under the cabinets where you do most of your prep work. You’ll know within a week whether the brightness and placement work for you, and you can expand from there. And if you’re renovating and want the hardwired route, hire the electrician while the walls are open — it’s a lot easier than retrofitting later. For more kitchen finishing touches, check out our guide to kitchen backsplash caulk for a polished look. If you’re comparing smart lighting systems for the whole kitchen, best smart led systems for kitchens breaks down the app-controlled options. And if you’re tracking how much this upgrade can save on your electric bill by reducing overhead light use, save money with task lighting has the numbers.