The first cordless drill I bought was a Black Friday deal—$59, two batteries, a case that looked serious. It died halfway through drilling pocket holes for a bookshelf project because I’d picked a 12V drill for a job that needed 18V torque. I finished the project with a borrowed drill and learned this: what you’re building matters more than what’s on sale.
Before you compare specs, answer these five questions: Are you drilling into wood, metal, or masonry? Are you driving 3-inch construction screws or assembling IKEA furniture? Do you already own batteries in a specific platform? Will you use this drill weekly or twice a year? And honestly, will you remember to charge the batteries between uses?
Quick verdict:
- DeWalt DCD771C2 is the best first drill for most homeowners—reliable, cheap enough to not hurt if you only use it six times a year, widely available batteries
- Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2804-20 is the best choice if you’re doing real weekend builds—deck framing, bed frames, anything with construction-grade fasteners
- Makita XFD131 is the best compact option for finish work, cabinet installs, or anywhere a smaller form factor matters more than raw power
- Ryobi P1813 is the best platform play if you already own ONE+ batteries—the drill’s fine, the ecosystem is the point
At a glance
| Feature | DeWalt DCD771C2 | Milwaukee M18 Fuel | Makita XFD131 | Ryobi P1813 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Price (as of 2026-08-28) | $99 (kit) | $149 (tool only) | $129 (kit) | $79 (kit) |
| Voltage | 20V Max (18V actual) | 18V | 18V | 18V |
| Battery included | 1.3Ah (2x) | None (sold separately) | 2.0Ah (1x) | 1.5Ah (2x) |
| Weight (with battery) | 3.6 lbs | 3.4 lbs | 3.3 lbs | 3.5 lbs |
| Brushless motor | No | Yes | Yes | No |
| Best for | First-time buyers, light-duty assembly, shelf mounting | Weekend builders, deck projects, heavy fastening | Finish carpentry, compact spaces, precision work | Existing Ryobi owners expanding their kit |
| Biggest weakness | Runtime fades fast under load; 1.3Ah batteries feel small for continuous work | No battery included; M18 ecosystem lock-in expensive to start | Single battery in kit means downtime waiting for charge | Brushed motor less efficient; slower than brushless competitors |
DeWalt DCD771C2—best first drill for most homeowners
This is the drill I recommend when someone texts me “what drill should I buy” with no other context. It’s $99 at Home Depot, comes with two batteries and a charger, and it’ll handle 90% of the jobs a homeowner actually does—hanging curtain rods, assembling furniture, mounting a TV bracket, drilling pilot holes for deck screws.
The 20V Max branding is marketing (it’s 18V nominal, like every other “18V” drill on this list), but the spec that matters is this: with a 1.3Ah battery, you get about 20–25 minutes of intermittent drilling before needing a swap. That’s enough to mount a shelf, drill 40–50 pocket holes, or drive a box of 2.5-inch screws into framing. For a weekend project, two batteries means you’re rotating them and never waiting.
Strengths:
- Widely available batteries—every Home Depot, every Lowe’s, even some hardware stores carry DeWalt 20V Max packs
- Two-battery kit means continuous work (one charges while you use the other)
- Affordable enough that if you only use it four times a year, you won’t regret the investment
Weaknesses:
- Brushed motor is less efficient than brushless competitors—you’ll feel the runtime difference on long drilling sessions
- 1.3Ah batteries are small; a single 2.0Ah or 4.0Ah battery would outlast both included packs for continuous work
- Chuck occasionally slips under high torque (bits have spun loose when driving lag bolts)
Best for: First-time power tool buyers, homeowners doing light-to-moderate assembly and mounting work, anyone wanting a reliable drill without committing to an expensive platform.
If you’re using this for furniture assembly and strip a screw head, here’s how to get it out without destroying the piece.
Milwaukee M18 Fuel 2804-20—best for serious weekend projects
I switched to Milwaukee M18 after I built a deck and burned through four DeWalt batteries in one afternoon driving lag bolts. The brushless motor in the Fuel series makes a real difference under sustained load—runtime is about 40% longer than a brushed equivalent, and torque delivery is smoother.
The catch: this is sold as a bare tool (no battery, no charger), so your first-in cost is closer to $250 once you add an M18 4.0Ah battery and charger. But if you’re building furniture, framing out a shed, or doing any project where serious DIY blurs into actual construction, the investment pays back in runtime and power.
With a 2.0Ah battery, I get about 30–35 minutes of continuous drilling into framing lumber or driving 3-inch construction screws—real work time, not the “up to 60 minutes runtime” marketing claim that assumes intermittent use and no-load conditions. A 4.0Ah pack doubles that and adds enough reserve you’re not babying the trigger to conserve charge.
Strengths:
- Brushless motor delivers consistent torque even as the battery drains (brushed motors fade noticeably in the last 20% of charge)
- M18 platform is expansive—if you stay in this ecosystem, you can run everything from an oscillating tool to a shop vac on the same batteries
- Compact design (7.5 inches head length) fits tight spaces despite being a full-size 18V drill
Weaknesses:
- Expensive to start—bare tool + battery + charger is a $250+ investment before adding a second battery for continuous work
- M18 batteries are physically large; working in a cramped cabinet or overhead, the drill + battery combo feels heavy after 20 minutes
- No included case (you’re buying the tool only, so storage is on you)
Best for: Homeowners doing multi-day builds, anyone eventually owning 4+ cordless tools and wanting them on one platform, people already committed to the M18 ecosystem.
Makita XFD131—best compact drill for precision work
The first time I used this drill was installing Euro hinges on a cabinet build, and the size difference was immediately obvious—6.6 inches head-to-back means it fits into the cabinet interior without smacking the adjacent wall. If you’re doing finish carpentry, installing hardware, or working anywhere compact matters more than raw power, this is the drill.
It’s brushless (so runtime is good) and comes with a 2.0Ah battery, which gives you about 25–30 minutes of continuous drilling in hardwood or driving trim screws. One battery is tight for a full-day project, so budget for a second 2.0Ah or a single 4.0Ah pack.
The kit is $129, which includes one battery and a charger. Makita’s LXT platform is mature (they’ve been on 18V since the mid-2000s) and batteries cross-compatible across 200+ tools, so the lock-in is less painful than starting fresh with a new brand.
Strengths:
- Compact form factor fits where full-size drills don’t—upper cabinet installs, tight corners, overhead work
- Brushless motor efficient enough that a 2.0Ah battery feels like a 3.0Ah on a brushed drill
- LXT battery platform is stable and expansive; I’ve run the same battery architecture across a drill, impact driver, and reciprocating saw for five years with no compatibility issues
Weaknesses:
- Single battery in the kit means waiting for a recharge mid-project unless you buy a second pack upfront
- Lower torque than full-size drills—fine for wood and drywall, but struggles with lag bolts or metal drilling beyond pilot holes
- Less common in big-box stores than DeWalt or Milwaukee; a dead battery on Sunday means ordering online or driving to a specialty shop
Best for: Finish carpentry, cabinetry, anyone working in spaces where a compact drill matters, existing Makita LXT owners expanding their kit.
Ryobi P1813—best value if you’re already in the ONE+ platform
I don’t recommend Ryobi as a first cordless platform—the tool quality is fine but not exceptional, and starting fresh means DeWalt or Milwaukee make more sense. But if you already own Ryobi ONE+ batteries (from a string trimmer, leaf blower, the inflator you bought for car tires), this drill is $79 and shares that battery ecosystem. The math changes when you’re not buying into a new platform.
The P1813 is brushed, so it’s less efficient than the brushless competitors on this list. Runtime with a 1.5Ah battery is about 15–20 minutes of continuous work, and torque fades noticeably in the last 25% of charge. But for light assembly, shelf mounting, or the intermittent drilling most homeowners do, it’s adequate. I’ve used a Ryobi drill to hang picture frames, assemble a bookshelf, and install a closet organizer—jobs totaling 30–40 minutes, not continuous runtime.
Strengths:
- Cheap entry point if you already own ONE+ batteries—$79 for the kit, or $49 for the bare tool
- ONE+ platform is massive (175+ tools) and includes oddball stuff like a hot glue gun and a fan, so ecosystem utility is practical
- Two 1.5Ah batteries in the kit mean you can rotate them and avoid mid-project downtime
Weaknesses:
- Brushed motor less efficient and powerful than brushless competitors; you’ll feel it on heavy fastening or metal drilling
- Cheap plastic chuck feels loose compared to DeWalt or Makita; bits have slipped when over-torquing screws
- Runtime fades under sustained load—fine for intermittent use, frustrating on long drilling sessions
Best for: Existing Ryobi ONE+ owners who want a drill without starting a new battery platform, homeowners doing light-duty assembly and occasional drilling, anyone valuing platform breadth (the weird tools) over individual tool performance.
Drill driver comparison: when you need an impact driver instead
The second-most-common mistake I see (after buying the wrong voltage) is using a drill for a job that needs an impact driver. If you’re driving 50+ screws into framing lumber, building a deck, or assembling anything with construction-grade fasteners, an impact driver is faster and easier on your wrist.
Drill/driver: Variable speed, adjustable clutch, good for drilling holes and driving screws into soft materials (wood, drywall). The clutch lets you set a torque limit so you don’t overdrive finish screws.
Impact driver: High torque, hammering action, no clutch. It drives screws fast and doesn’t cam out (strip the head) as easily, but you can’t dial down power for delicate work. If you’ve ever tried to drive a 3-inch construction screw with a drill and felt your wrist twist, an impact driver is what you needed.
For most homeowners, a drill/driver comes first and an impact driver is the second cordless tool you buy. If you’re only buying one, get the drill—it’s more versatile. If you’re doing a big fastening-heavy project (deck, fence, framing), rent an impact driver for the weekend rather than burning out a drill on a job it’s not designed for.
Battery runtime: real numbers, not marketing claims
Marketing specs say “up to 60 minutes runtime” but that’s no-load, intermittent use, ideal conditions. Here’s what I’ve logged across multiple projects with a 2.0Ah battery (the most common size in homeowner kits):
- Drilling 3/4” holes in framing lumber (spade bit): 25–30 minutes continuous
- Driving 2.5” construction screws into 2x4s: 30–35 minutes continuous (brushless), 20–25 minutes (brushed)
- Pocket hole drilling in hardwood: 40–50 holes before needing a swap
- Light assembly (IKEA furniture, shelf brackets): 60+ minutes intermittent use
The difference between brushless and brushed motors is most obvious under sustained load. A brushless drill holds torque and runtime as the battery drains; a brushed drill fades noticeably in the last 20% of charge. If you’re doing multi-hour projects, that fade is frustrating enough to justify the extra $30–50 for brushless.
Battery capacity guide:
- 1.3–1.5Ah: Fine for light assembly and intermittent drilling; feels small for continuous work
- 2.0Ah: Sweet spot for most homeowner projects—enough runtime to finish a typical job, light enough the drill doesn’t feel heavy
- 4.0Ah+: Long runtime but adds weight; best for all-day projects or when you only want to carry one battery
Two 2.0Ah batteries are more useful than one 4.0Ah battery—you can rotate them (one charges while you use the other) and the drill stays lighter. For full-day builds, a single 4.0Ah or 5.0Ah pack makes sense.
Battery ecosystem lock-in: what you’re committing to
The battery platform you choose is the ecosystem you’re locked into. A DeWalt drill means buying DeWalt batteries for the next decade; switching platforms means re-buying chargers, batteries, and eventually tools. Here’s what each major platform looks like:
| Platform | Voltage options | Tool breadth | Battery compatibility | Big-box availability |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DeWalt 20V Max | 20V Max, FlexVolt (20V/60V) | 200+ tools, heavy pro-grade focus | FlexVolt batteries work in 20V tools (as 20V); 20V batteries don’t work in 60V tools | Excellent (Home Depot, Lowe’s) |
| Milwaukee M18 | M12 (compact), M18 | 250+ tools, pro-grade and homeowner options | M12 and M18 are separate platforms (incompatible); M18 has most tool variety | Excellent (Home Depot) |
| Makita LXT | 18V LXT, 36V (2x18V) | 200+ tools, balanced pro/homeowner | LXT platform stable since mid-2000s; excellent backward compatibility | Good (some Home Depot/Lowe’s, specialty shops) |
| Ryobi ONE+ | 18V ONE+ | 175+ tools, homeowner-focused, quirky options | All ONE+ batteries cross-compatible since platform launch | Excellent (Home Depot exclusive) |
The lock-in cost matters most if you’ll eventually own multiple tools. If you’re buying a drill, then an impact driver, then a circular saw, you’re buying 3–4 batteries minimum. A DeWalt or Milwaukee battery is $60–80 (2.0Ah) or $100–140 (4.0Ah+); Ryobi batteries are $40–60. Over four tools, that’s a $200+ difference in battery costs alone.
DeWalt FlexVolt confusion: FlexVolt batteries automatically switch between 20V and 60V depending on the tool. A FlexVolt pack works in any 20V Max tool (as a 20V battery), but you’re paying $150+ for a 6.0Ah FlexVolt when a $80 4.0Ah 20V Max pack would run your drill just as well. FlexVolt makes sense when you own both 20V and 60V tools; it’s overkill for a homeowner with a drill and an impact driver.
First power drill buying guide: questions to answer before you buy
If this is your first cordless drill, don’t start by comparing specs—start by answering what you’re building and how often you’ll use it.
Question 1: What are you building in the next six months?
If the answer is “hanging shelves and assembling furniture,” a 12V drill is cheaper and lighter. If the answer is “building a deck” or “framing a shed,” you need 18V and enough torque to drive construction screws without straining.
Question 2: How often will you use this drill?
If it’s twice a year, buy the cheapest kit with two batteries and don’t overthink it. If it’s every weekend, spend the extra $50 for brushless—the runtime and motor longevity are worth it.
Question 3: Do you already own cordless tools?
If you have a Ryobi string trimmer, buy a Ryobi drill and share the batteries. If you’re starting fresh, DeWalt or Milwaukee make more sense long-term, but the best platform is the one you’ve already invested in.
Question 4: Will you remember to charge the batteries?
Honest answer: if you’re the kind of person who forgets to charge your phone overnight, buy a kit with two batteries so one is always on the charger. I’ve started weekend projects with a dead battery more times than I’ll admit, and the solution is simple—leave one battery on the charger permanently and rotate them.
Question 5: Do you have a place to store this?
A drill kit with a case is easier to store and keeps the batteries, charger, and bits together. If you’re tight on space, a bare tool + batteries in a drawer works fine, but you’ll spend five minutes finding the charger every time you need it.
When not to buy cordless
Cordless drills are convenient, but they’re not the right tool for every homeowner. Here’s when to rent, buy corded, or skip the purchase entirely:
Rent for one-off projects: If you’re drilling 200 holes in concrete for a basement project and you’ll never do it again, rent a corded hammer drill for $40/day instead of buying a cordless tool you’ll use once.
Corded is cheaper for occasional use: A corded drill is $40–60, never needs charging, and has unlimited runtime. If you use a drill six times a year and always near an outlet, corded makes more sense than spending $100+ on a cordless kit you’ll forget to charge.
You don’t need a drill for five screws: If you’re hanging a single picture frame or assembling one IKEA shelf, a $15 manual screwdriver and a $10 hand drill are faster than digging out the cordless drill, finding the charger, and waiting 30 minutes for a dead battery.
I keep a corded drill as a backup specifically for jobs where I’ve forgotten to charge batteries or I’m drilling into something that needs sustained high-torque (metal, masonry). Cordless is more convenient 90% of the time, but that last 10% is when a $50 corded drill saves the project.
How we compared these drills
This comparison is based on five years of using cordless drills across rental rehab projects, furniture builds, and weekend DIY. I’ve owned or extensively used each drill on this list, and the runtime numbers are logged from real projects (pocket hole drilling, shelf mounting, deck fastening) rather than manufacturer specs.
Pricing verified as of 2026-08-28 via Home Depot and Lowe’s online listings. Battery runtime measured with 2.0Ah packs under continuous load (drilling 3/4” holes in framing lumber, driving 2.5” construction screws) until the drill stopped. “Intermittent use” runtime based on typical homeowner projects (20–30 seconds of drilling, 30–60 seconds of positioning/measuring, repeated).
I didn’t test every drill on the market—these four represent the most common recommendations for homeowners across budget, mid-range, compact, and platform-value categories. If you’re looking for pro-grade options or specialty drills (right-angle, hammer-drill combos), this guide isn’t covering that ground.
FAQ
Do I need 18V or is 12V enough?
If you’re only drilling pilot holes and assembling furniture, 12V is lighter and cheaper. If you’re driving construction screws into framing lumber, hanging doors, or drilling into hardwood, 18V has the torque you need. Most homeowners are better off with 18V—the extra power covers more use cases, and the price difference is only $20–30.
What’s the difference between a drill and an impact driver?
A drill has an adjustable clutch and variable speed—good for drilling holes and driving screws into soft materials without overdoing it. An impact driver has a hammering action that delivers high torque for driving screws fast, but no clutch to dial down power. If you’re only buying one, get a drill. If you’re doing heavy fastening (deck screws, lag bolts), add an impact driver second.
How long do cordless drill batteries last?
A lithium-ion battery will hold a charge for 6–12 months on the shelf and last 3–5 years of regular use before capacity degrades noticeably. If you’re using a drill every weekend, expect to replace batteries every 3–4 years. If you’re using it six times a year, the batteries will outlive the drill.
Can I use a cordless drill on masonry or metal?
Yes, but it’s slower and harder on the battery than drilling wood. For masonry, you want a hammer drill mode (some cordless drills have it, most don’t); for metal, use sharp bits and go slow to avoid overheating. If you’re drilling more than a few holes in concrete or metal, rent a corded hammer drill—the runtime and power are worth it.
Affiliate disclosure: Some product links in this article are affiliate links, which means FixerDaily may earn a small commission if you purchase through those links at no extra cost to you. This helps us keep the lights on and publish more honest tool reviews.
For most homeowners, the DeWalt DCD771C2 is the right first drill—cheap enough to not hurt if you only use it twice a year, capable enough to handle the jobs you’ll actually do. If you’re building furniture or doing multi-day projects every other weekend, step up to the Milwaukee M18 Fuel and accept the platform lock-in. And if you already own Ryobi batteries, the P1813 is fine—the drill is adequate, and the ecosystem value is the real point.
If you’re using your new drill to install shelving, start by finding the studs—drywall anchors are a backup, not a first choice. And for a comparison of impact drivers once you’re ready to add a second tool, we’ve got a side-by-side breakdown of the same platforms.